Post by mikehardy on May 31, 2012 11:34:45 GMT
Tools i used
small hammer,
kitchen knife
19mm cone spanners
socket extension (use as punch)
20mm socket (drive in bearing)
pliers
Grease
Kitchen towels.
This is just a pawl clean and regrease and replacement of the damaged outer freehub bearing on the above hub, replacement of other bearings is the same.
the bearings are 15267 2RS and can be found on ebay for about £5 or £19.50 for 4, the other 3 in my rear hub are perfectly smooth and did not need replacement, simply bearings also carry then but about £12 plus postage, they are 26x15x7mm
start off by removing the cassette in the usual manner leaving you with this.
then turn the wheel around and remove the QR end cap, it's a very tight fit, so i tap and kitchen knife down into the gap using a hammer to move it out then user pliers to take it off.
leaving this,
remove the outer lockring followed by the inner nut with splash seal.
yes it would be quite easy to machine a 12mm through axle for these, or 12x150mm with the creation of some spacers for the axle and disc mounting area.
after this you can push the axle through to the drive side usually the freehub would go with it then slide the axle out of that,
you'll be left with the axle, freehub and wheel,
clean all the old grease from the pawl section and with a paper towel and your nail scrap the dirt out of there the rubber seal runs in the free hub
then remove the black seal from the wheel pictured below and wipe that and all the oil grease from the pawls area.
make sure you local the 15x0.5mm spacer that fits between the hub bearing and inner freehub bearing. it usually sticks to one of them and if you lose it your freehub when bind when reassembling.
leaving you with this, re-grease the pawls area smoothing it around, it doesn't need much.
as i'm just replacing the outer freehub bearing i put the freehub on a steady surface and insert a punch through the inner hole pushing the centre spacer aside until the punch rested on the inside of the outer bearing.
then tap the punch with a hammer alternating sides until the old bearing it out,
rest the freehub on the pawl side on a steady surface offer up the new bearing and using a 19 or 20mm socket drive it into the hole left by the old bearing ensuring it goes in straight. it should look like this afterwards.
push the black dirt/grease seal back into its lip in the main hub body.
then slide the axle through the freehub and slide the 15x0.5mm spacer on at the same time.
then slide the axle back through the main hub, when the freehub is pressing against the hub rotate it in an anti-clockwise direction whilst pushing gently to allow it to slip back over the freehub lip.
fit the but with seal and turn it until it is finger tight against the bearing,
fit the lock ring until it touches the seal nut then whilst holding the outer nut turn the inner nut against it in an anti-clockwise direction.
tap in the steel QR part.
small hammer,
kitchen knife
19mm cone spanners
socket extension (use as punch)
20mm socket (drive in bearing)
pliers
Grease
Kitchen towels.
This is just a pawl clean and regrease and replacement of the damaged outer freehub bearing on the above hub, replacement of other bearings is the same.
the bearings are 15267 2RS and can be found on ebay for about £5 or £19.50 for 4, the other 3 in my rear hub are perfectly smooth and did not need replacement, simply bearings also carry then but about £12 plus postage, they are 26x15x7mm
start off by removing the cassette in the usual manner leaving you with this.
then turn the wheel around and remove the QR end cap, it's a very tight fit, so i tap and kitchen knife down into the gap using a hammer to move it out then user pliers to take it off.
leaving this,
remove the outer lockring followed by the inner nut with splash seal.
yes it would be quite easy to machine a 12mm through axle for these, or 12x150mm with the creation of some spacers for the axle and disc mounting area.
after this you can push the axle through to the drive side usually the freehub would go with it then slide the axle out of that,
you'll be left with the axle, freehub and wheel,
clean all the old grease from the pawl section and with a paper towel and your nail scrap the dirt out of there the rubber seal runs in the free hub
then remove the black seal from the wheel pictured below and wipe that and all the oil grease from the pawls area.
make sure you local the 15x0.5mm spacer that fits between the hub bearing and inner freehub bearing. it usually sticks to one of them and if you lose it your freehub when bind when reassembling.
leaving you with this, re-grease the pawls area smoothing it around, it doesn't need much.
as i'm just replacing the outer freehub bearing i put the freehub on a steady surface and insert a punch through the inner hole pushing the centre spacer aside until the punch rested on the inside of the outer bearing.
then tap the punch with a hammer alternating sides until the old bearing it out,
rest the freehub on the pawl side on a steady surface offer up the new bearing and using a 19 or 20mm socket drive it into the hole left by the old bearing ensuring it goes in straight. it should look like this afterwards.
push the black dirt/grease seal back into its lip in the main hub body.
then slide the axle through the freehub and slide the 15x0.5mm spacer on at the same time.
then slide the axle back through the main hub, when the freehub is pressing against the hub rotate it in an anti-clockwise direction whilst pushing gently to allow it to slip back over the freehub lip.
fit the but with seal and turn it until it is finger tight against the bearing,
fit the lock ring until it touches the seal nut then whilst holding the outer nut turn the inner nut against it in an anti-clockwise direction.
tap in the steel QR part.