Dodgy brakes

[Caz]

Just wondering whether anyone could let me know what the problem is with my back brake.

I have Hayes Solo hydraulic disk brakes and currently pulling the lever fully gives no braking at all.

Adjusting the caliper to move the pads makes no difference. I had the same problem when the bike was 3 months old. I then took out the brake pads to change them but they didn't appear worn so I didn't replace them, put them back together and took my bike to the LBS. They said it sounded like the brakes needed bleeding so I left it with them. On returning to collect my bike, they informed my that they had changed the brake pads. I didn't query this as I was happy that the brake was fixed.

I am now experiencing the same problem 2 months on. Any ideas? I still believe that it could be air in the system but I'm not sure. Do I buy a bleed kit and try bleeding the brake? Or is it something else?

Thanks in advance.

[ftasb]

I'm by no means an expert but it sounds to me like they need bleeding.

[martinw]

If I was in your position I would bleed the brakes thoroughly, get yourself some disc brake cleaner and scrub your pads and disc, I recently used undiluted fenwiks bike wash to de-gunge my pads and discs and it worked a treat.

You could also try lightly sandpapering your pads too, roughen them up a little.

You caliper isnt leaking any fluid at all is it?

[Oggy]

Defo a good bleed will sort that out, also when cleaning brakes i use isopropyl Alcahoel which can be bought from chemists to clean my rotors and pads, also give the pad a light sanding to remove the shine off them.

[Caz]

Thanks all
Will get a bleed kit ordered.

[danevs]

Be wary of using IPA to clean your rotors boys and girls, most IPA will leave an oily residue after it has evaporated. Something more volatile such as Methanol or Acetone is a better bet if available.

[Oggy]

Nov 17, 2008 22:31:34 GMT @danevs said:

Be wary of using IPA to clean your rotors boys and girls, most IPA will leave an oily residue after it has evaporated. Something more volatile such as Methanol or Acetone is a better bet if available.

Lots of people use it and ive only had good results from it, leaves no residue at all.

[Russ]

With the Hayes Solo only one piston moves when you pull the lever. So you have to make sure you have the caliper adjusted so that there's only a minimal gap between the static piston and the disc rotor.

Also they are known for the reach adjustment screw on the brake lever working loose over time, resulting in the lever coming closer to the bars every time you use it. Worth a quick check before you resort to bleeding them.

[martinw]

Nice one russ, good bit of info there.

[Caz]

Thanks for the tips guys. Have tried all the above including bleeding brakes twice but the lever is still giving no resistance. There is at least a slight improvement as the brake pads now move but not enough to give any stopping power!

Any ideas, please.

[martinw]

I would drop it in to your LBS caz. Let them take a good look at it, tell them what you have done to try and sort it.

The calipers may need stripping and looking at.

[hugzee]

Hmm that advice sounds eerily familiar... ;D

[Russ]

Saw a pair of Hayes Solo brakes go this way on Saturday when we were up around Lee Quarry. Cure then was to adjust the inside (non-moving) pads closer to the rotor to account for pad wear using an allen key, can't remember what size key it was thou.

[john59]

Used to have hayes sole brakes and hayes hmx2 which is the cable version of the sole, mine did the same trick afew times, same as russ says the cure for mine was to adjust the inside pad using a 5mm allen key. This used to be a method thad was on the hayes instruction sheet for the older models that i had. Hope this helps

[JB]

Do an iffy bleed job (twice) on the kitchen floor, with a rank amateur and a dotty dog as assistants, would be my best advice....then go to the LBS and get them to tell you what's actually wrong!! Job done.