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Post by Russ on Dec 31, 2011 19:28:31 GMT
It is a pretty straight forward conversion to change a Motion Control fork from a remote to crown mounted lockout/compression control. It's a case of obtaining the lever to go on top of the MoCo along with the seal/circlip (all in a MoCo control knob kit) look on here for the Reba/Rev/Pike ones >> www.tftunedshox.com/Catalogue/Shop-RockShox/RockShox/RockShox-Reba-PartsThen it's a 10 min job to change. I've got a PDF guide on how to do it if anyone wants it emailing to them. Only fiddly bit is either removing the coil spring inside the MoCo damper or taking the easy way of un-hooking it and leaving it in place. Swap can be done with forks in situ on bike and doesn't need any oil, well unless you want to change the damper oil at the same time and then it's just a case of pouring out the old stuff, pouring in the new whilst you have the MoCo out. |
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Post by thistle on Dec 31, 2011 19:38:28 GMT
They were half price before Christmas. They also had a 10% off code and hopefully got some cashback too. They took them off the website on Boxing Day and sent me an email saying they had gone on back order  but then turned up yesterday ;D As far as I could tell, the Rebas are all made as 'all travel' versions which means they can be 80/100/120mm. The technical manual on the SRAM website tells you how to change the travel, it's not too difficult. Lower leg service is a bit more fiddly than with the Recons because of the hollow legs and the extra air valve you can't whack with a mallet. |
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Post by Rupert on Dec 31, 2011 20:29:35 GMT
It is a pretty straight forward conversion to change a Motion Control fork from a remote to crown mounted lockout/compression control. It's a case of obtaining the lever to go on top of the MoCo along with the seal/circlip (all in a MoCo control knob kit) look on here for the Reba/Rev/Pike ones >> www.tftunedshox.com/Catalogue/Shop-RockShox/RockShox/RockShox-Reba-PartsThen it's a 10 min job to change. I've got a PDF guide on how to do it if anyone wants it emailing to them. Only fiddly bit is either removing the coil spring inside the MoCo damper or taking the easy way of un-hooking it and leaving it in place. Swap can be done with forks in situ on bike and doesn't need any oil, well unless you want to change the damper oil at the same time and then it's just a case of pouring out the old stuff, pouring in the new whilst you have the MoCo out. If it's the same lever as on the 2009ish model then I might be able to swap it off the old forks. Also just noticed they do a 120mm of the SID... decisions decisions |
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Post by Russ on Dec 31, 2011 20:36:02 GMT
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Post by Rupert on Dec 31, 2011 20:55:26 GMT
Nice, but only in silver....  |
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Post by Russ on Dec 31, 2011 21:33:29 GMT
Guess it depends on how much you are prepared to pay for a colour over the features you want.
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Post by Rupert on Dec 31, 2011 22:01:54 GMT
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Post by Karl on Jan 1, 2012 13:12:45 GMT
Rupert as dave said to sally get seals done straight away with the new forks money well spent in the long run extra seal will only protect the forks better.
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Post by sally on Jan 1, 2012 13:21:16 GMT
there the ones I got Rupert- but in white so not really the proper colour as the crown should be black on my bike- hope the fashion police aren't about  |
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Post by sally on Jan 4, 2012 14:34:38 GMT
ok now for a probably dumb question. I've got my new forks and a new headset . is it worth using those neoprene covers over the stantions (thnk they're called 'boots'. and does anyone put anything in the bottom of the steerer tube to stop the mud lodging there and making everything horrible? Like a bung?? |
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Post by thistle on Jan 4, 2012 15:33:30 GMT
ok now for a probably dumb question. I've got my new forks and a new headset . is it worth using those neoprene covers over the stantions (thnk they're called 'boots'. Someone told me not to bother as they don't help much and make it harder to let water drain away and clean the stanchions/seals. I've not tried them though so can't say from personal experience. and does anyone put anything in the bottom of the steerer tube to stop the mud lodging there and making everything horrible? Like a bung?? I'm planning to find something to put in the bottom of mine, maybe a end plug from a road bar if it fits. I'll be drilling a hole in it to let any water out if I do |
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Post by Rupert on Jan 4, 2012 17:24:36 GMT
ok now for a probably dumb question. I've got my new forks and a new headset . is it worth using those neoprene covers over the stantions (thnk they're called 'boots'. and does anyone put anything in the bottom of the steerer tube to stop the mud lodging there and making everything horrible? Like a bung?? I've not seen anyone use those covers on forks for years. I'd imagine that some grit and water will still get in and then the boots themselves would start to wear out the anodising unless you clean them every ride. I've seen people use them on shocks, but there is less actual movement there. I don't think the bung in the bottom is very important as the crap that's in the steerer tube can't easily get into the workings of the fork or the headset (especially if you use a hope head doctor instead of a star nut). Of course it does add extra weight if you're worried about that  |
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Post by voodoopiles on Jan 4, 2012 18:00:20 GMT
Can't you pop one of your sherry corks in there ?
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Post by BenKMV on Jan 4, 2012 20:37:37 GMT
The corks are too big |
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Post by sally on Jan 4, 2012 21:27:11 GMT
I nearly said a cork ;D but your comments make sense- and as everyone knows- less is more suppose knackering your forks cos you havnt bothered to learn anything about them and how to look after them is a lesson I can't afford to learn again  |
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but then turned up yesterday ;D
