You have 3 options...
1. If your feeling adventurous you could make your own check out this site.
www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power-LEDs-Cree/CREE-Solutions-c_120_117.htmlyou can get some interesting cree leds from them. I made some light a few years ago and they're awesome. I get back in my car after a ride and think hmm these headlights are rubbish. I'm using a pair similar to these...
www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power-LEDs-Cree/CREE-Solutions/4-x-CREE-XP-G-Q5-on-round-PCB-LT-1647_120_117.htmlWhich fit nicely into copper reducer pipe fittings. I've basically used screw in audio cable connectors which seem to be pretty water proof and a buckpuck voltage regulator.
www.ledsupply.com/buckpuck.phpa large drinks bottle and a 14.8V 5700mAh Lipo battery like the ones used in RC cars...
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6000mah-14-8V-35C-3S1P-Lipo-battery-For-RC-Airplane-Cars-Truck-Boat-/380457486035?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item58950886d3I've made some mounts out our pipe clips, velco and an old coat hanger.
All very blue Peter.
my LEDs should output about 3000 lumines but there are some new 7LED packs on the first web site that now run 7000lumines in one 7 led round. I guess the issues here are carrying enough battery power to run it all and cooling. I recon my bike LEDs will run for about 4 hours on full power. They do get very hot in doors, but in the winter on the bike there seems to be enough air flow. I do need to add a power drop warning alarm to the battery to prevent over discharge, but I'm very happy my setup at the mo.
The White tape just helps prevent the lights slipping if it's wet and rough going.
LED's are glued with heat paste and liquid metal glue to copper end caps that are soldered into the reducers and the lenses are stuck on with silicon sealant. the cable side of the copper endcaps have heat sinks glued to them with heat transfer paste and liquid metal. The connectors are a press fit into the reducer ends.
I've also made a head torch using cree stars in 22mm copper reducers, only 250 lumens each but i have 4 of them.
If your making a head torch and you have a remote battery then I would strongly recommend some kind of spiral type power cable. I used to have a solid cable on my first head touch, but somehow i managed to pull the wire's out of my battery pack and set fire to my camelbak. Turned me into a screaming fire ball. You'd be surprised how long it takes to get your gloves off, your pack off and the battery out of it when your going quick down hill and in the middle of winter. I was un-harmed but I toasted 20 NiCads a bag and a water bladder. My mates think I'm insane
I do always take a spare light just incase (it's a cheap 10 quid halfords led head torch) you wouldn't want to go far or fast with it but it's better than nothing and it's small.
Guestimate my setup cost me about 150UKP
2. Buy some good quality branded lights, When I made my lights (above) my mate bought a set of hope4's he still has light envy now.
3. If your not feeling adventurous enough for option 1 and like me your skint... check these out I bought them for my lad.
for your helmet...
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CREE-XML-XM-L-T6-1800-LM-LED-Cycling-Bike-Bicycle-Head-Light-HeadLamp-HeadLight-/140744146377?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Cycling_Bike_Lights&hash=item20c5013dc9and these for your bars...
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mountain-Bike-Cycle-Bicycle-Lights-2400-Lumens-3x-CREE-XM-L-T6-LED-2x-XPE-R2-/220962577490?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Cycling_Bike_Lights&hash=item3372655c52I would recommend using both, or 2 of the ones in the first link. My only comment on these is that the connectors aren't very water proof and the batteries do seem to be prone to vibration damage, so make sure you use enough padding when mounting them to your bike.
They are cheaper than making your own or buying uk branded ones. Replacement battery packs are only 12.99. If you have one of each you'll have plenty of light and as long as you use them conservatively (using the lower power settings when your climbing etc) then you should easily get round the black at Degla!
Good luck
Zoot
my LEDs should output about 3000 lumines but there are some new 7LED packs on the first web site that now run 7000lumines in one 7 led round. I guess the issues here are carrying enough battery power to run it all and cooling. I recon my bike LEDs will run for about 4 hours on full power. They do get very hot in doors, but in the winter on the bike there seems to be enough air flow. I do need to add a power drop warning alarm to the battery to prevent over discharge, but I'm very happy my setup at the mo.